tomasz.cc http://tomasz.cc tomasz.cc Mon, 04 Jan 2016 12:13:54 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Common Resolve and Premiere roundtrip issues http://tomasz.cc/2015/02/common-resolve-and-premiere-roundtrip-issues/ http://tomasz.cc/2015/02/common-resolve-and-premiere-roundtrip-issues/#comments Thu, 26 Feb 2015 17:00:23 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=1583 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2015/02/common-resolve-and-premiere-roundtrip-issues/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Discovering processing workflow of DaVinci Resolve http://tomasz.cc/2015/02/discovering-processing-workflow-davinci-resolve/ http://tomasz.cc/2015/02/discovering-processing-workflow-davinci-resolve/#comments Mon, 23 Feb 2015 17:00:23 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=1510 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2015/02/discovering-processing-workflow-davinci-resolve/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Winter in Wieliczka, BMPCC footage http://tomasz.cc/2015/02/winter-wieliczka-bmpcc-footage/ http://tomasz.cc/2015/02/winter-wieliczka-bmpcc-footage/#respond Fri, 13 Feb 2015 17:00:22 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=1560 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2015/02/winter-wieliczka-bmpcc-footage/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Understanding BMPCC exposure with Zebras http://tomasz.cc/2015/02/understanding-bmpcc-exposure-zebras/ http://tomasz.cc/2015/02/understanding-bmpcc-exposure-zebras/#comments Thu, 05 Feb 2015 21:17:05 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=1490 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2015/02/understanding-bmpcc-exposure-zebras/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Caching secrets in DaVinci Resolve http://tomasz.cc/2015/01/caching-secrets-davinci-resolve/ http://tomasz.cc/2015/01/caching-secrets-davinci-resolve/#comments Thu, 01 Jan 2015 16:00:59 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=1469 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2015/01/caching-secrets-davinci-resolve/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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How to improve DaVinci Resolve performance in 3 steps http://tomasz.cc/2014/12/improve-davinci-resolve-performance-3-steps/ http://tomasz.cc/2014/12/improve-davinci-resolve-performance-3-steps/#comments Sat, 27 Dec 2014 21:23:26 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=1455 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2014/12/improve-davinci-resolve-performance-3-steps/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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How to use DaVinci Resolve to detect cuts and split the video http://tomasz.cc/2014/11/use-davinci-resolve-detect-cuts-split-video/ http://tomasz.cc/2014/11/use-davinci-resolve-detect-cuts-split-video/#respond Fri, 28 Nov 2014 17:00:54 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=1432 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2014/11/use-davinci-resolve-detect-cuts-split-video/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Deconstructing the Photo episode 1 http://tomasz.cc/2014/11/deconstructing-photo-episode-1/ http://tomasz.cc/2014/11/deconstructing-photo-episode-1/#comments Sun, 16 Nov 2014 18:04:40 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=1421 Welcome to my first episode in the series called Deconstructing the Photo In the video below I will show you everything you need to know about this particular picture. From the...

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Welcome to my first episode in the series called Deconstructing the Photo
In the video below I will show you everything you need to know about this particular picture. From the preparation and execution to the postproduction process.
I’m going to give you some hints on how to prepare for the photoshoot better, how to choose the best settings and equipment using this photo as an example.
I’m going to show you how I edited the picture in Lightroom and Adobe Photoshop, going over every single layer and explaining what I did and what was the reason behind each step.

This series is some sort of a photo breakdown, and I think might give you some idea about the whole process I go through and perhaps will raise some questions and maybe some of your ideas will help me improve my workflow too.

Hope this video is useful for you, and if you like it there’s gonna be more episodes in the near future. Let me know what you think, what might be improved and anything else in the comments below.

Additional resources

Download Orton Effect Photoshop action mentioned at the end of the video.

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Fixing skin tones, bmpcc footage, Resolve screencast http://tomasz.cc/2014/11/fixing-skin-tones-bmpcc-footage-resolve-screencast/ http://tomasz.cc/2014/11/fixing-skin-tones-bmpcc-footage-resolve-screencast/#comments Wed, 05 Nov 2014 16:00:53 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=1406 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2014/11/fixing-skin-tones-bmpcc-footage-resolve-screencast/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Shooting Music Video with ML RAW Part 2 (editing) http://tomasz.cc/2014/10/shooting-music-video-ml-raw-part-2/ http://tomasz.cc/2014/10/shooting-music-video-ml-raw-part-2/#comments Sun, 26 Oct 2014 21:03:44 +0000 http://blog.tomasz.cc/?p=685 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2014/10/shooting-music-video-ml-raw-part-2/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Hannibal – grading decomposition http://tomasz.cc/2014/10/hannibal-grading-decomposition/ http://tomasz.cc/2014/10/hannibal-grading-decomposition/#comments Thu, 16 Oct 2014 11:45:28 +0000 http://blog.tomasz.cc/?p=719 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2014/10/hannibal-grading-decomposition/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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BMPCC ISO 1600 performance test http://tomasz.cc/2014/10/bmpcc-iso-1600-performance-test/ http://tomasz.cc/2014/10/bmpcc-iso-1600-performance-test/#respond Thu, 09 Oct 2014 16:00:25 +0000 http://blog.tomasz.cc/?p=703 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2014/10/bmpcc-iso-1600-performance-test/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Shooting Music Video with ML RAW Part 1 http://tomasz.cc/2014/09/shooting-music-video-ml-raw-5d-mark-iii/ http://tomasz.cc/2014/09/shooting-music-video-ml-raw-5d-mark-iii/#comments Fri, 26 Sep 2014 16:15:01 +0000 http://blog.tomasz.cc/?p=12 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2014/09/shooting-music-video-ml-raw-5d-mark-iii/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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The Middleman Official Trailer http://tomasz.cc/2014/08/middleman-official-trailer/ http://tomasz.cc/2014/08/middleman-official-trailer/#respond Sun, 24 Aug 2014 07:07:08 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=1081 This article has been moved to my new website timeinpixels.com dedicated to filmmaking. You can access it here: http://timeinpixels.com/2014/08/middleman-official-trailer/ Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Drifting Sunday, Agios Silas, Cyprus http://tomasz.cc/2013/08/drifting-sunday-agios-silas-cyprus/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/08/drifting-sunday-agios-silas-cyprus/#respond Mon, 26 Aug 2013 16:00:25 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=762 While shooting some videos with my friends, some guys with fancy cars entered the parking lot and started doing a lot of noise… Couldn’t resist but record them! Unfortunately, my...

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While shooting some videos with my friends, some guys with fancy cars entered the parking lot and started doing a lot of noise… Couldn’t resist but record them! Unfortunately, my hand was tired after the whole day of shooting, so shots are not very stable… Still, I’m glad I had this opportunity!

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Shooting Sunrises, guest post for The Giving Lens http://tomasz.cc/2013/06/shooting-sunrises-guest-post-giving-lens/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/06/shooting-sunrises-guest-post-giving-lens/#respond Sun, 30 Jun 2013 15:28:35 +0000 http://blog.tomasz.cc/?p=629 A few weeks ago my post called Shooting Sunrise was published on The Giving Lens blog. More about the website and the idea behind it you can read here. Check...

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A few weeks ago my post called Shooting Sunrise was published on The Giving Lens blog. More about the website and the idea behind it you can read here. Check out the gallery and other interesting blog posts, I’m sure you can find many useful information and wonderful pictures!

Shooting Sunrises – guest post for The Giving Lens

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Complete post-processing tutorial, DRI, blending, lightroom, photoshop http://tomasz.cc/2013/05/complete-post-processing-tutorial-dri-blending-lightroom-photoshop/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/05/complete-post-processing-tutorial-dri-blending-lightroom-photoshop/#comments Fri, 03 May 2013 08:30:28 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=607 I’ve recorded the post-processing of one of my recent photos, and added descriptive captions, hope you like it! It’s the whole process from the very beginning – I import RAW...

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I’ve recorded the post-processing of one of my recent photos, and added descriptive captions, hope you like it! It’s the whole process from the very beginning – I import RAW files in Lightroom, adjust them initially, then blend them together in photoshop and process them to the very end!

Complete post-processing tutorial, DRI, blending, lightroom, photoshop

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Life Street Festival Limassol 2013 http://tomasz.cc/2013/05/life-street-festival-limassol-2013/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/05/life-street-festival-limassol-2013/#respond Wed, 01 May 2013 07:15:37 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=601 Recently I started using my camera also for some video work, and this is my first official movie I shot a few days ago at the Life Street Festival Limassol...

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Recently I started using my camera also for some video work, and this is my first official movie I shot a few days ago at the Life Street Festival Limassol 2013, Cyprus. I was focused mostly on graffiti artists doing a great job and painting all over the streets of Limassol city centre. A few of them were really spectacular. I hope my video below captured at least a fraction of what was going on there!

Life Street Festival, Limassol, Cyprus, 27th of April 2013

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I want to shoot at night! http://tomasz.cc/2013/04/i-want-to-shoot-at-night/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/04/i-want-to-shoot-at-night/#comments Thu, 18 Apr 2013 19:00:43 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/tumblr/?p=53 Hold on a second, cowboy. First of all, if you really want to start taking pictures during the night, you need to get familiar with manual mode. There’s no possibility...

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Hold on a second, cowboy. First of all, if you really want to start taking pictures during the night, you need to get familiar with manual mode. There’s no possibility that you will get nice results using auto mode or night preset.
Another issue is that without a tripod there’s a small chance that your pictures will be sharp. Actually it’s almost impossible. If all the above is not a problem for you, let’s get to the topic.

Things you will need:

  1. Tripod
  2. Cable release
  3. Camera

Not necessarily in that order, but all 3 are important. Fast lens will be also useful especially for capturing skies. You can argue that cable release is not that really important. True, but I  still recommend it as it gives you the ability to expose for more than 30 seconds. Releasing the shutter is much more convenient than using camera built-in timers. If you don’t own one, it’s not the end of the world but get one – the simplest one is cheap and will be useful for many other situations too.
One more thing that is very useful when you are out shooting in the night – flashlight! Or your smartphone – with a cool app should be enough.

Light pollution

Shooting Milky Way in the middle of the city is usually a bad idea. Unless the city is abandoned or there’s an electricity outage. Otherwise you will get the light pollution and the only thing you will capture is the light coming from the city, not from the sky. The best places for taking breathtaking night sky pictures are the places far from the cities, far from the civilization. And by far, I mean really far. Even a distant city may create quite big light pollution over the horizon.

[full_width_image][/full_width_image]

Moon is not cool

Moon is cool, when it’s the subject of the photo. When it’s the only subject of the photo. However if you are willing to take a picture of the sky, moon is not cool at all. It’s another light pollution we talked about in the previous paragraph. So basically if you are going to take night pictures of a sky check on the web when the moonrise is, and choose the time when the moon is not visible.

2012-07-03_moon_horizontal_01

Photographing the moon is fairly simple. As long as you have a stable tripod and long lens you should be able to capture a nice moon details regardless of the light pollution – moon itself is bright enough. The picture above was shot using 200mm lens + teleconverter 2.0 on APS-C sensor which gives 600mm full frame equivalent. Exposure parameters were ISO 250, f/7.1 1/250s. Always use manual settings, automated modes will give you overexposed images and you will lose all the moon’s details.

Star trails

Stars move. Actually according to Copernicus earth is the one which moves. And we can clearly see that movement when we set the shutter open long enough. On the image we will see lines (curves) instead of stars. If this is not what we want to achieve there’s a quick formula which tells us what the longest shutter speed is for a given focal length. What we need to do is to divide 600 by the focal length and the result is the maximum amount of time which will give us sharp stars without any trails.

600 / 24mm = max 25s
600 / 15mm = max 40s

So, the wider you go, the more time you have for a single frame before you start to notice star trails.

tomasz_cc-20130413-016

The picture above was exposed for 4-5 minutes, and we can notice very obvious trails.

Camera settings

For the best results you should use aperture not bigger than f/4. During the night there’s so little light and you shouldn’t limit it even more with small apertures. You can experiment with ISO, but probably the native value is too low and you will need to crank it up, sometimes even to 3-6k to be able to capture all the light without having star trails. Fast lens and camera with good noise performance on high ISO is the best for that kind of pictures.

Summary

Having the last paragraphs in mind, it’s pretty clear, that wide and fast lens is the best for photographing the skies and trying to capture the Milky Way. Wide angle gives us more time and fast lens saves us from using very high ISO.

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Long Exposures Explained http://tomasz.cc/2013/04/long-exposures-explained/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/04/long-exposures-explained/#comments Mon, 01 Apr 2013 10:00:32 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=557 In this article I would like to talk about everything you need to know to take long and very long exposure shots. I will list all the required and recommended...

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In this article I would like to talk about everything you need to know to take long and very long exposure shots. I will list all the required and recommended equipment, point out common mistakes, show differences between various exposure times and give some helpful tips.

Let’s start off with what you really need.

Required equipment

  1. Tripod
  2. Cable release

To be able to capture a long exposure shot you definitely need a very stable support for your camera. It’s vital, and every even the slightest movement will ruin your photo so it’s very important to have a solid and good quality tripod. In a windy weather you might want to load the tripod with additional weight like backpack.

Cable release is another required tool which allows you to expand the exposure time beyond the 30 seconds limit. You can say that 30s exposure is long enough, and you will be right, but for me the real fun with long exposures starts way after that time. But if you don’t have a cable release at the moment, you can experiment with shorter times too.

Recommended equipment

  1. ND filter/filters
  2. Viewfinder cover

ND filter (ND stands for Neutral Density) is a filter that reduces the amount of light coming to the camera sensor giving no changes in hue of colour rendition. This is theory and unfortunately in reality it’s not really true, because every filter introduces more or less colour cast to your photos. It depends on the length of exposure is and directly from the quality of the filter. Even the most expensive ND filters leave colour cast on the images. For the cheaper filters the colour cast might be very difficult to correct in post-process though. So again, the quality matters. If you don’t have any ND filters right now, remember that increasing the f-stop and lowering the ISO will give you the longest exposure time.

A viewfinder cover is a very useful tool used to basically cover the viewfinder in order to block any light that might reach the sensor especially when the sun is behind the camera. This little cover can prevent uneven exposure and unwanted artefacts.

Common mistakes

  1. Autofocus
  2. Vibration reduction
  3. Camera mode

The first thing I do before I start the long exposure is to make sure I have turned off the autofocus. Long exposures are taken in dark conditions or with a dark filter in front of the lens so in most situations the autofocus sensor is not able to detect the focus properly. When you try to focus just before taking the photo, focusing system will jump in and will not be able to focus correctly. As a result you will end up with a picture which is out of focus.

Vibration reduction or image stabilisation of your lenses should be turned off anyway for the tripod use. The low amount of light coming to sensor during long exposure will only make things worse, so keep it in mind to check that setting too.

Another mistake is the use of automated camera mode like aperture priority. In this mode camera will try to calculate exposure time by itself, but again, the amount of light is so low that in many cases this calculation will be wrong, especially for longer exposures. For long exposures the right choice is only manual mode.

Examples

The following examples will show you the same scene taken with different settings. The first photo is a regular exposure taken without any filters:

[full_width_image][/full_width_image]

The exposure time for this image is 1/4s, ISO 100 and aperture f/16.
Now what happens if we try to make the exposure a bit longer:

[full_width_image][/full_width_image]

This image was taken with the exposure time of 15 seconds (the same ISO and f-stop as the first one). To achieve that I used ND 1.8 filter which basically reduces the light by 6 stops (1/4s, 1/2s, 1s, 2s, 4s, 8s, 15s – 6 stops).

Now let’s try a really long exposure. For that I used ND 3.0 which is 10 stop filter. The following picture was taken with the exposure of 250s, ISO 100 and f/9:

[full_width_image][/full_width_image]

Now, the time used here created this nice effect, the clouds and the sea are really blurred.

You probably noticed that the aperture for the last shot was changed from f/16 to f/9. It’s because I used a very strong ND filter (10 stops) and I had to compensate with the f-stop so that I wouldn’t end up with the exposure of over 1 hour. Why? Let’s see how to calculate exposure times.

How to calculate exposure times with ND filter

Calculating the correct exposure time is a mathematical task. It’s the balance of light that comes to the sensor. The less light goes in, the more time is required to properly expose the image. To be able to calculate the exposure time we need to know how much the shutter time changes for every stop of light. The strength of ND filters is measured in stops, so having a 2 stop ND filter will take 2 stops from our shutter speed.

Now, step by step:

  1. Put your camera to Aperture priority mode.
  2. Set your ISO and aperture.
  3. Read the shutter speed that camera calculated.

Let’s say it’s 1/250s. Now we attach the 6 stop ND filter, which means that we need to prolong the shutter speed by 6 stops. To do that let’s use the standardised list of shutter times:

1/8000 1/4000 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60 1/30 1/15 1/8 1/4 1/2 1 2 4 8 15 30 1m 2m 4m etc.

Take the time that camera calculated (1/250) and move 6 places to the right – 1/4s. That’s the correct shutter time with ND filter attached to the camera and will give the same “brightness” as a picture taken without a filter with 1/250s time.

There’s an app for that!

If you have a smartphone you can download apps for the exposure time calculations – Longtime Exposure Calculator for iOS and Exposure Calculator for Android.

If it doesn’t work

Now, again this is theory, and in reality this not necessarily might be true. First of all, the quality of ND filters may vary and the 6 stop filter might stop the light a little more or a little less. Another issue is changing light – during an exposure of a few minutes it is possible that the light changes, especially when you take pictures during the sunset or sunrise hours. By the time you finish your eight-minute exposure the sun might not be in the sky anymore and the calculations are no longer right. How to solve that?

Experiment

Use the calculations at the beginning to have a general idea of the correct exposure times, but try to play with them. Keep the exposure a bit longer. If the picture is too bright, try again for a shorter amount of time. After some time you will be able to predict more or less the correct shutter time without any tables and calculations.

The advantage is that with long exposures it’s harder to make a mistake in calculation of shutter speed. If your correct exposure time is 8 minutes and you expose for 7 minutes the picture will be all right. If you expose for 9 minutes – again, the difference will be very small. It always takes a double amount of time to change the exposure by 1 stop. So to make the picture 1 stop brighter you would need to expose it for 16 minutes. That’s quite a difference.

Hope this article will help you with your long exposures. If so, let me know and send a link to your work!

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Cinematic productions shot with Nikon D800 http://tomasz.cc/2013/03/cinematic-productions-shot-with-nikon-d800/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/03/cinematic-productions-shot-with-nikon-d800/#respond Sat, 23 Mar 2013 20:35:15 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=438 In this post I would like to show you two cinematic productions shot with Nikon D800 that have impressed me recently. It really proves that Nikon released a very powerful...

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In this post I would like to show you two cinematic productions shot with Nikon D800 that have impressed me recently. It really proves that Nikon released a very powerful and capable camera with video features. Canon has always been the one shining in the movie industry after the release of 5D M2, but now Nikon has something in his arsenal which can compete and even deliver much better results due to uncompressed HDMI output.

Below you can watch two productions entirely shot with the Nikon D800. Of course the amount of gear used to actually shoot these movies is overwhelming for a regular photographer, but the core behind all this is just a camera we all know from the photography world.

The first movie is “Joy Ride”:

[ylwm_vimeo width=700 height=394]36305675[/ylwm_vimeo]

You can also watch the behind the scenes here.

Another one is called “Broken Night”:

[ylwm_vimeo width=700 height=394]56862418[/ylwm_vimeo]

And there is a project’s site with additional footage from behind the scenes, interviews with director etc.

In both productions you can see very difficult scenes to shoot, low light situations, different lighting conditions, action shots, various angles impossible for traditional cameras – all this shows that Nikon D800 gives absolutely new opportunities in the movie production area and the results that can be achieved with it are stunning.

Another interesting fact is that the very same camera was used in one of the Dexter episodes (you can see that in the featured picture above this article).

Featured image found on http://www.definitionmagazine.com/journal/2012/11/22/nikon-dlsrs-in-hollywood.html

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Straighten a photo tutorial http://tomasz.cc/2013/02/straighten-a-photo-tutorial/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/02/straighten-a-photo-tutorial/#comments Sun, 24 Feb 2013 10:30:38 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=408 In this video I will show you how to straighten a photo containing quite severe ultra wide angle distortion. For that I will use Lightroom and Photoshop. Some basic adjustments...

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In this video I will show you how to straighten a photo containing quite severe ultra wide angle distortion. For that I will use Lightroom and Photoshop. Some basic adjustments are also applied to improve the picture quality.
Hope this tutorial will be useful somebody! Let me know what you think!

Straighten a photo tutorial

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Pick and Reject flag in Lightroom http://tomasz.cc/2013/02/pick-and-reject-flag-in-lightroom/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/02/pick-and-reject-flag-in-lightroom/#comments Sun, 17 Feb 2013 09:30:59 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=322 I constantly try to improve my photography workflow. Number of my pictures in Lightroom catalog grows every day and I need really solid process to handle all the files from...

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I constantly try to improve my photography workflow. Number of my pictures in Lightroom catalog grows every day and I need really solid process to handle all the files from the very beginning. The first step, right after the import, is an initial selection. It means that I don’t keep all the images that my camera captured. The storage is cheap and I know many people tend to keep all the pictures on their hard drives in case they change their minds, nevertheless I remove some of them to keep my workflow efficient and to save some space on my drives. Also, the Lightroom seems to be working a bit slower with the collection getting bigger and bigger.

Pick and Reject flags

Pick and reject flag in Lightroom is a tool which basically marks pictures as picked and rejected. The current state of the photo is indicated by the icon in top left corner – either black for rejected and white for picked. I used to use star ratings for the same purpose some time ago marking rejected pictures with one star, but since I discovered pick and reject I have never looked back. There’s one important difference between both solutions. Pick and reject has another built in functionality – Delete all rejected photos under Photo menu. This means that after selecting all the accepted photos, and marking the ones that we are not interested in, we can simply tell Lightroom to remove all the rejected photos from the drive.

lightroom_pick_reject

Getting efficient

How to use this feature efficiently? Use keyboard shortcuts! For picking and rejecting use p and x keyboard keys accordingly. You can press the shift key while marking the photo if you want to proceed to the next one. To improve the process have caps lock enabled so the Lightroom will advance to the next photo each time you make a decision automatically and every time. If you want to undo your decision press u key to remove the selection flag.
If you belong to the group of people who doesn’t remove pictures from the drive you can still use this feature. There’s an option to Hide Rejects in the filters and you won’t see rejected photos in your collections but the photos won’t be affected in any other way.

Summary

  • p – pick
  • x – reject
  • u – undo/unflag
  • ⇪ caps lock – advance to the next picture after setting the flag when on
  • ⌘⌫ – Delete Rejected Photos (ctrl+backspace for windows)

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Fotoferia International Exhibition 2012 Nomination http://tomasz.cc/2013/02/fotoferia-international-exhibition-2012-nomination/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/02/fotoferia-international-exhibition-2012-nomination/#respond Wed, 13 Feb 2013 17:00:33 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=345 Today I’m proud to pronounce that one of my photos made it to winning place of the International Exhibition 2012 Contest organised by Fotoferia photography club. Jury has graded 1829 photos and...

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Today I’m proud to pronounce that one of my photos made it to winning place of the International Exhibition 2012 Contest organised by Fotoferia photography club.

Jury has graded 1829 photos and those with highest ratings went to the final stage where best pictures were awarded with medals and nominated.
All the pictures are simply amazing and I cannot believe that my photo made it!

Here’s a video presenting all the winners photos:

Fotoferia International Exhibition 2012 Nomination

The gallery with all the photos can be found here.

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Your Tripod does not like seascapes! http://tomasz.cc/2013/02/your-tripod-does-not-like-seascapes/ http://tomasz.cc/2013/02/your-tripod-does-not-like-seascapes/#comments Sun, 03 Feb 2013 08:30:47 +0000 http://tomasz.cc/?p=293 I’m pretty sure if the tripod could talk it would say that it hates shooting seascapes with you. Especially when it is exposed to the sea water directly, the legs...

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I’m pretty sure if the tripod could talk it would say that it hates shooting seascapes with you. Especially when it is exposed to the sea water directly, the legs are oftentimes dipped in water and all the other parts are splashed by the waves from time to time. Why all that is not too entertaining for your tripod? The answer is here:

D700-20130113-001

D700-20130113-002

Yeah, it looks pretty bad and actually it’s not that easy to fix. To be honest, you should really avoid getting your tripod to this stage, but if you have already done so I’ll try to give you some hints what can be done.

First of all you need a proper screwdriver to disassemble the whole thing. For my Manfrotto tripod this screwdriver does the job:

D700-20130113-005

These two guys will help too. The first one will deal with some rusty hinges and whatnot, the other one will be used after the cleaning to all the moving parts. You can use whatever lube you can get from your DIY shop.

D700-20130113-007

While disassembling try not to get too depressed when you see something like that:

D700-20130113-011

And here’s my tripod (actually only legs) in pieces:

D700-20130113-015

Nuts and screws require special treatment. Put them with some water mixed with a cheap descaler (for kettles, coffee machines, etc) in a small cup. Leave them for a few minutes (not more – it can cause damage). After that time all the salt should be gone. If not, try extra few minutes.

D700-20130113-018

Clean all the leg parts with warm water and soap. Accumulated salt won’t disappear completely and you will need to scratch it manually. Takes some time, but it’s doable. All you need is some piece of plastic that will not scratch the carbon-fiber surface (screwdriver handle in my case). You can cover it with some cloth to be safe. Then start removing salt coating by rubbing it gently. Here’s my before and after:

before_after

After cleaning and assembling all the parts put some lube or grease around the joints so the movement is smooth:

D700-20130113-026

Here’s the final result:

D700-20130113-030

As a regular maintenance it should be enough to clean your tripod with warm water as soon as you get back home from the shooting even if your tripod wasn’t exposed to the salty water or sand directly.

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